Royal Secrets
Thai food fit for a king lures followers to its unexpected locale.
It’s possibly Orange County’s only royal connection: Tucked away between Starbucks and Sav-On in a Lake Forest strip mall is a bustling Thai restaurant headed by an unassuming chef with big-time credentials – a degree presented from the royal kitchens of Thailand. (Just think of it as the equivalent of cooking in the White House, Buckingham palace or the Vatican.)
But rather than catering to a diplomat’s late-night cravings, or a State dinner for 500, chef Tuey Chaitasama Gjestland is chopping lemongrass in her tiny kitchen, recreating her carefully guarded royal recipes for local devotees.
Little-known by outsiders, aficionados of Thai cuisine will face a re-awakening at the authenticity of Tuey’s culinary mastery. Take the traditional larb kai ($6.95) where chicken fillets are chopped finely by hand and tossed in a wok with lime, mint and chilli sauce – a far cry from the ubiquitous examples served in over-sized lettuce leaves at some big-time Asian food chains. “The food we cook is only offered to high society or royalty in Thailand,” explains owner and husband David Gjestland. “Preparations are more elaborate and more costly in terms of both time and ingredients.” (The wine list sourced from David’s native South Africa and Australia is equally as studied. More on that later.)
But while the décor is a far-cry from the restrained grandeur of Buckingham Palace (example: the co-ed bathroom that’s a long way from classy), the food is a great deal more enticing than the Queen’s typically bland diet of over-boiled vegetables. Freshness is the byword here. True to Thai royal traditions, the kitchen prepares everything from scratch; Tuey and her chefs disperse with the lunch crowd, returning as the restaurant re-opens for dinner to chop and blend spices as orders demand, be it a broth of coconut milk hiding slices of spicy chicken ($4.95), the clean flavours of a green papaya salad ($5.95) or the intense simplicity of steamed seafood and silver noodles prepared in a special foil pot ($10.95).
Perhaps a little ironically, Tuey’s complex preparations result in dishes far different to the convoluted amalgam of tastes many local Thai eateries serve up to diners. Where others embrace the cooking influences of Vietnam, Laos or Cambodia, Tuey’s cuisine remains true to the workings of the Thai kingdom’s culinary traditions. Hers are works of simplicity, devoid of oily sauces and limp vegetables. Layers of flavor are built subtly using an endless list of classic spices; the pocket-sized kitchen is heady with the aromas of garlic, lime, ginger, nutmeg, cinnamon, anise, turmeric and coriander.
It would make for a lengthy recipe book, that is, if Tuey had need of one. Her dutiful husband has battled for almost three years to entice her recipe writing, to no avail. “She cooks by smell,” he says. “No recipes, she just knows it by feel.”
Consequently a salad of grilled beef and lime ($5.95) is a refreshingly light starter that carries with it the subtle taste of lemongrass and mild chilli. Fish also features strongly on the menu since seafood holds a position of prominence in Thailand’s elite kitchens. Get your taste with the deep-fried ginger fish ($12.95). Don’t let cooking’s “f” word deter you; the subtly spiced fried fish paired with a classic ginger and garlic sauce retains its succulence courtesy of a brief dance in the pan.
As for the wine list, we recommend the Pinotage, South Africa’s star red varietal, with the musamam curry ($6.95), a plate of tender beef simmered with onions and peanuts. Surprised? David, a wine expert, is constantly re-educating diners accustomed to washing down pad Thai with a cold, fruity white. Frequently updated, the wine list boasts more choices than your neighbourhood French bistro – and attracts the crowds to prove it: On our last visit, a Temecula winemaker was spotted savoring the selections.
Food pours out of the kitchen thick and fast. Though lunch is busy and evenings often fully booked, you won’t wait long, thanks to a style of cooking that embraces brevity and flash. It’s the best way to showcase fresh produce sourced from across SoCal, be it spices from L.A.’s Bangkok market or exotic vegetables from Little Saigon. (Fluffy eggrolls ($4.50) and silken mushrooms ($6.50) are part of an extensive veg menu.)
Take-out is available but not always recommended, as some dishes taste bet eaten ho fro the work. It’s just one more lesson in Thai food and freshness from a royal kitchen catering to a devoted public. The Queen doesn’t know what she’s missing.
Spice Cuisine of Thailand, 24301 Muirlands Blvd., Lake Forest, 949.458.0983. Open daily; lunch 11am to 3pm; dinner 5pm to 10pm.