Starry-eyed in San Sebastian
A taste of culinary wizardry on Spain’s Basque coast
It was French toast like we had never before experienced. A pint-sized rectangle of two-inch-thick brioche soaked in egg yolk and sautéed, its outer edge resplendent with a golden-brown caramelized crust. Resting next to it, a single scoop of ice cream made from a reduction of fresh milk, left to melt into a delectable puddle of smooth richness. As a vibrant exclamation point to a meal that defied all superlatives, there was none better.
But such mastery is the norm within the rustic walls of Mugaritz, one of San Sebastian’s Michelin starred restaurants.
With its cobblestone alleyways and Belle Époque architecture, the famed city of the Basque region in Spain’s northeast is considered one of the country’s most beautiful destinations. As the official summer residence of the Spanish Court and site of the stunning La Concha beach, it’s little wonder San Sebastian has become a Mecca for culture-vultures, surfers and snap-happy tourists everywhere.
Foodies have also found their spiritual home here: eating is central to the Basque’s ancient culture and a strong effort has been made to preserve the region’s unique flavours. As a result, today’s pinxtos (tapas) bars offer the same cuisine enjoyed for generations – be it a wedge of onion omelet, small bites of spicy chorizo or a slice of bread topped with fresh, grilled anchovy.
But away from the old city’s plethora of pinxtos bars awaits a dining experience irresistible for the true gourmand.
Twenty minutes from the streets of San Sebastian lays a rustic farmhouse hidden by a grove of trees. Within it is Mugaritz, the restaurant where Basque super chef Adoni Luis Aduriz works the stovetops to create sublime dishes of regional importance.
“Buenos noches,” greets the regally imposing maitre d’, before sweeping us to our table. Menus are promptly presented in both Spanish and English, saving us the embarrassing request. When it comes to reading a menu of this caliber, with its intricate descriptions and indulgent ingredients, guide book Spanish can be found wanting.
But clearly language is no barrier for the restaurant front man.
A consummate professional, the maitre d’ slips between Castillian Spanish, Basque, French and English with intimidating ease. This is no easy feat, confides an American dining companion who counts Spanish and German in her language quiver, particularly when it comes to the language of food.
Yet however talented the staff, it is Aduriz’s skills we have come to appreciate.
“It is best to order four or five dishes,” explains the maitre d’ of Aduriz’s market driven bill of fare. Portions are just slightly larger than those of a tasting menu, allowing diners the indulgence of more dishes in order to fully appreciate the chef’s food philosophy.
And so the experience begins. From a delicate nest of oven-roasted and raw vegetables, wild sprouts and leaves enhanced by hazelnut butter and dusted with petals, to a crystallized cod steak (Aduriz has previously nudged out his El Bulli mentor to claim the prize for best cod dish, awarded by food critics), and a roasted lamb fillet imbued with the flavours of shredded garlic, hazelnut oil and toasted hazelnuts. And not forgetting the grand finale – that ethereal French toast.
The evening is a sensation for the palate, an experiential journey of taste whose memory lingers long after your return flight has landed and the complimentary menu remains your only tangible evidence of an unforgettable dining experience.
Mugaritz, Aldura Aldea, 20, Errenteria, +34 943 522 455