L’Arbuci
25 rue de Buci, 6th (01.44.32.16.00/ www.arbuci.com). M Odeon or Mabillon. Open daily noon-1am. Jazz club Fri-Sat midnight-5am. Average E45. Lunch Menu E15.50, E20. Credit AmEx, DC, MC, V. Non-smoking room. Map H7
The banquettes are mauve, the interior chic-though-unsurprising, the service crisp and the atmosphere just this side of straight. To borrow from the restaurant’s own PR speak, an interior overhaul has led L’Arbuci to ‘play the trendy card’, resulting in a menu that reads as a cross between classic French and eclectic fusion – a rather risky approach for a brasserie. Still, L’Arbuci keeps it in hand, stopping far short of El Bulli-esque weirdness with dishes such as roasted duck fillet in cacoa sauce, and sweet grilled scallops drizzled in a caramelized orange sauce alongside a quartet of endives wrapped in ham. For those seeking something less contrived, a classic starter of haricot verts followed by the all-you-can-eat rotisserie formula should fit the bill. As for the salty ambrosia of the eat-till-replete oyster menu, we stopped at 30 with more still on offer. Thankfully service has improved since our last visit: the team of black-clad waiters could not be faulted, catering to a decent lunch crowd with bilingual charm.