The Stockbridge Restaurant
54 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, 0131 226 6766, www.thestockbridgerestaurant.com. Open Tues–Fri 7–9.30pm; Sat 7–10pm. Average price of two-course a la carte evening meal for one (excluding drinks) £26
There’s a certain level of expectation surrounding those who have done serious time in a Michelin-starred restaurant, particularly when said chef is 12 months in to his first solo venture. Enter Jason Gallagher. Following a two-year stint at Martin Wishart, Gallagher has branched out on his own at the Stockbridge Restaurant, the former haunt of local ‘celeb’ chef Juliet Lawrence Wilson. The basement space has remained unchanged — large Colourist prints hang on painted-black walls while fairy lights and luxe gold and cream chairs work to create an intimate subterranean space that’s surprisingly subtle. The menu, however, makes no apologies for its rich offerings. A mozzarella and Parma ham appetiser is the first of the irresistable ‘extras’ (best that elegant ensemble has a drawstring waste) and paves the way for seared scallops or a creamy Jerusalem artichoke soup. Mains are generally lavish — halibut with crispy pancetta and fried quail egg or roast duck and fondant potato – though they can also be under-seasoned. Though another extra, a pre-dessert mouthful of gorgeously piquant passion fruit sorbet, outshines the over-worked sweet finales, the overall experience is one of luxuriant indulgence. And with Gallagher out to secure some accolades of his own, it looks likely diners will continue to be spoiled.
High point: Romantics will love to linger
Low point:The house white leaves a little to be desired