Postcard from Paris
A dream is unfolding in the land of Chanel for an untested Melbourne designer
It’s a dream debut most designers could never hope to realise. Paris fashion week and a chic Champagne brunch-come-fashion-show in the moneyed Place de Vendôme district – and all without ever having sold a single stitch of clothing.
But that’s precisely the fashion coup Melbourne’s Jo Le Grew pulled off last week, with the low-key launch of her first ever collection to a select audience of press and buyers amidst the fervour of the 2006 Autumn/Winter ready-to-wear Paris shows.
At 61-years old, Le Grew has sprung out of the fashion woodwork. Her stunning, 53-piece range is of exquisite simplicity and construction. Highly tailored pieces made in the finest Australian wool and Japanese cottons combine the uniqueness of classic Isogawa with the construction of Armani. Already garnering interest in Japan and America, it seems a phenomenal achievement for the late-entering industry newcomer.
To all except Le Grew, that is. “Fashion is probably something that’s been on the backburner all my life,” explains the Mont Albert-born designer. “I’ve always created pieces for myself, just as I’ve always followed the path of design.”
Unbelievably petite in a slim and structured vermillion wool skirt and jacket from her own collection, hair smoothed back in to a tight chignon, Le Grew looks completely at home, even within the grand surrounds of the Paris Hyatt Vendôme. (Also the site of Gucci’s show that same day.). Her launch is low on hype and all the more chic for it: three or four models wearing her designs mingle amongst guests sipping coffee and Champagne.
It is little wonder, then, that her first foray in to fashion came as result of a catalogue of comments concerning her own unique sense of style.
“It (Le Grew’s label) actually evolved from someone making a comment about a jacket that I had made about 15 years prior. My husband and I were living in New Zealand, and I thought…I’ll give it a go.”
Her first efforts came to nought, something Le Grew – a former landscape architect school teacher and medical illustrator – attributes to timing. It was not until a move to Tasmania with her husband three years ago that her vision came together.
Asked to classify her style she responds in a flash. “My motto is simplicity through complexity. The garments are very structured but… there is a quirkiness, a palate you can work from. Put a classy jacket with a great pair of jeans.”
It is, says Le Grew, a classic collection to span the age divide. And it’s true. The waifish model circulating in tailored silk pants and structured, cropped, cream wool waistcoat looks as funky as the designer looks elegant. These are designs not just for the skinny set. “It’s not just about a size 8. It’s about making a woman feel good,” she insists. “The styles, they transform in to all sizes.”
But not necessarily all pocket books. Le Grew is also clear that hers is a luxury label. Much of her collection is handmade in Sicily (by the same boutique manufacturer sewing the designs of Ralph Lauren, Armani and Oscar de la Renta), while her knits are constructed in Melbourne under the sharp eye of Albert Spangaro. “It is a niche market,” she concedes. “I see it as women buying one pivotal piece if they can’t afford a great deal.”
As for her expectations of success, Le Grew is up front. “I’m expecting nothing. I’m having a go. I guess it’s a good Aussie way of thinking about things.”
But there seems little need for such caution. So far, all reactions have been wildly positive. Determining hers is a “world-class product”, Austrade has connected Le Grew with buyers and manufacturers around the world: the trade group were pivotal in helping pull together her Parisian debut.
So with work already begun on her summer collection, confirmed sales in America and follow-up interest in Japan and Germany, Le Grew has a full schedule.
As for where to buy, well, all we can says is: watch this space.