Hungry for Paris
For lovers - and lovers of food - Paris offers unparalleled delights for fabulous dining, no matter what your mood.
Le Marché
2 Place du Marché Ste Catherine, 4th arrondissement,
Metro St Paul.
T: 01 42 77 34 88
Hours: midday-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Thur; midday-11pm Fri-Sun
Average price two courses: €30
The beauty of Paris is to be found in its intimate corners. Secret spaces that, once found, offer a window in to la vie quotidian of the city’s inhabitants. Catch such a glimpse at Le Marché, a deliciously simple café within the cobbled and tree-lined courtyard of the Place du Marché Ste-Catherine. On the edge of the city’s old Jewish quarter, the quietly humming square comes alive on Sunday afternoons, when promenading Parisians leave behind the boutiques of the Marais for Le Marché’s surprisingly sophisticated fare. Winter calls for tender magret de canard in a rich wine reduction or fantastic moules frites, while lightly worked fish or luscious salads speak of languid summer afternoons. Time slows with each glass of wine enjoyed, and unexpected entertainment can take many forms: a lone saxophonist busking, or a young woman dancing with fire. It’s postcard pretty Paris imbued with all the history and romance for which the French capital is famed.
Mon Vieil Ami
69 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 4th arrondissement, metro Pont Marie.
T: 01 40 46 01 35
Hours: 8am-10.15pm Tues; midday-2.15pm, 8-10.15pm Wed-Sun. Closed Monday.
Average price two-courses: €40
For the sophisticated Parisians who count this stylishly modern restaurant among their regular haunts, Mon Vieil Ami is just that: an old friend that can be trusted to deliver time and again on its promise of excellence. Hidden behind a discreet entrance, the restaurant is secreted on the Ile St-Louis – the smaller of the two islands marooned by the Seine that form the city’s original heart. And while minimalist tables and moss green velvet curtains speak of contemporary elegance, exposed beam ceilings
hark back to the island’s centuries-old past. As does the cuisine. White asparagus with pan-fried foie gras, slow-braised shoulder of roebuck and roasted scallops with caramelised endives are a delicious reminder of the best of French cuisine. More joy is to be found just outside in the narrow street that runs the length of St-Louis, where art galleries, artisan boutiques and tempting epiceries provide the perfect impetus for an after-dinner stroll. And for those that manage to resist chef Antony Clemot’s stunningly rich desserts, perhaps a stop at nearby Berthillon is in order: the unctuous ice-cream from this famed vendor is a Parisian experience not to be missed.
L’Avenue
41 rue Montaigne, 8th arrondissement, metro Franklin-D Roosevelt
T: 01 40 70 14 91
Hours: 8am-2am seven days.
Average price two courses: €60
Leather banquettes and brass, creamy linens and wrought-iron – in the midst of one of the city’s most glamorous boulevards rests L’Avenue, an institution among the fashion glitterati. Its expansive corner position across from Jimmy Choo and next door to Valentino offers fabulous opportunities for long and lazy lunches on the covered terrace. Settle in and enjoy a menu offering a modern take on traditional bistro classics: al dente green beans and mushrooms in a balsamic vinaigrette, seared rare tuna steak, or a first-rate chateaubriand with hollandaise sauce for meatier appetites. At-times haughty serveurs are all part of the theatre of dining in a bistro well-known for its celebrity clientele – Brad Pitt, Drew Barrymore, Sarah Jessica Parker and a host of celebrated Parisian regulars have been known to wile away an afternoon in the atmosphere of low-key luxury. This is sophisticated Paris at its stylish best.
Little Italy
92 rue Montorgueil, 2nd arrondissement, metro Etienne Marcel or Sentier.
T: 01 42 36 36 25
Hours: Mon-Sat 9am-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm
Average price two courses: €30
It began as one of the city’s oldest market districts. Today bustling rue Montorgueil forms the pulsing heart of Paris’ urban design fashion quarter, bringing together a unique mix of charming patisseries, edgy boutiques and vibrant fruit and flower stalls to the ancient cobble-stoned street. In the midst of it all is Little Italy. Here, gorgeously fresh food and a breezy atmosphere attracts a hip audience to the stylishly casual interior. Order a good Chianti and immerse yourself in the richness of Parisian daily life over housemade pasta or a stunning salad of buffalo mozzarella, sweet melon and smoky jambon. Relaxed wait staff engender an atmosphere of cheerful bonhomie almost as entertaining as the visual spectacle of passers-by. Weekdays offer the best opportunities for experiencing the area at its energetic and eclectic best. And be it lunch or dinner, it is best to book ahead.